Every country has its own assortment of fascinating kitchen gizmos waiting to be discovered. Here in Japan I tried to resist, thinking simplicity was best, but as soon as I clutched my first kitchen toy, I was lost - and that was over 25 years ago!

Now what could that small, shiny, copper basket with the screen lid be" Judging by its long, brass handle, it's obviously meant to be used over fire, but you could only pop 10 grains of popcorn in it. What's often in sauces or sprinkled on top of a number of dishes" Of course, a sesame seed roaster! Naturally, I had to have one. It works, but remember: if the seeds turn color, they are too well done, so be careful and keep shaking.

Tea is universal, but the staple tea of Japan is green tea (sencha) or roasted tea (bancha) brewed in pots without built-in strainers. Just look around--hand-made strainers of bamboo or wire mesh with or without stands abound. They are practical and beautiful.
Most countries have sieves; Japan's are handsome and easy-to-use wooden hoop ones. What I prefer for making soft and creamy puree is one that looks like it's made of black plastic mesh but is, in fact, made of horsetail hair. This traditional sieve provides the give needed to insure proper mushing and yet is strong enough to hold together. To use, rinse and lower over a bowl. With someone steadying it, put some well-cooked peas or other vegetables on top. Using a flat paddle, push down and pull to puree. Keeping the paddle flat t...